The Cranberry & Silver is a recent addition to my chironomid collection. The maroon coloration of this pattern works in a variety of water conditions. Maroon is an excellent chironomid pupa color. In addition to matching maroon pupa the Cranberry & Silver can be taken for other similar colored pupa. The Cranberry & Silver also works well in deeper water in excess of fifteen feet.
Monthly Archives: August 2014
Fishy Photos 8-15-2014
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- photo by Luke Rutherford
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- AlaskaGuideList.com
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- Au Sable River – Robert Woodland
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- photo by Chris Lessway
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- Faceless Fly Fishing Media
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- Faceless Fly Fishing Media
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- Fish Eye Guy Photography
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- Fly Fishing Nation
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- Fly Fishing Frenzy
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- Paolo Marchesi Photography
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- Bitch Creek – Charles Barnes
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- Nick Oliver – Tiger Trout
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- Nicks Fishing Hole
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- Upper Gallatin – Charles Barnes
Filed under Uncategorized
Davy Wotton SLF Trans Caddis
A killer Caddis pattern from the master, Davy Wotton.
This is a proven performer here on the White River plus much wider afield _ and as good as it looks in our fly bins its even better wet.
Fish it as a standard nymph or as the point fly in a team of wet’s Wotton style.
Video from Dally’s Ozark Fly Fisher www.theozarkflyfisher.com on the White River in Cotter, Arkansas. Produced by the incomparable Brian & Jennifer Wise from Fly Fishing The Ozarks www.flyfishingtheozarks.com.
Materials List
Bead head optional: 2mm for hook sizes 12/14
Wing: Swiss straw or Raffine natural color straw
Hackles: Brown partridge//hen pheasant neck or spangled hen hackle dark tan/brown
Body: options include,, hares ear//SLF Standard dubbings.. Olive, cream, tan,orange, SLF Whitlock number 1
Head: Hares ear
Filed under Trout flies
Saltwater Crease Fly
Jay Nicholas demonstrates how to tie a Crease Fly, a common topwater fly for fishing saltwater for Salmon and Albacore.
Thread: Fine Mono
Hook: Mustad #2/0 or Gamakatsu SC 15
Belly/Spine: Bucktail – Fl. Blue over Chartreuse
Tail Topping: Smolt Blue Krystal Flash
Crease Fly Body Cutter: Size 1 (1/0) in my opinion this is a good fit on # 2/0 hook
Crease Fly Body Material: Thick Adhesive Crystal Skin – Pearlescent
Copic Marker: FL. Blue
NOTE: (from Paul) Jay uses Clear Cure Goo here, but other UV resins could be used, like Deer Creek Diamond Fine UV Resin for example.
Filed under Saltwater
Robin – Hans Weilenmann
photo by Hans Weilenmann
Material List:
Hook: Tiemco 102Y #15
Thread: Benecchi 12/0, black
Hackle: Silver badger
Rib: Wire, silver fine
Body: Fluey barbs from base of saddle hackle, claret/red
Note: R.I.P. Robin Williams
Cheers,
Hans W
Filed under Flymph, Trout flies
Spey fly step-by-step – Christian van Hedel
The binding of a Spey salmon fly in its traditional form.
Features: Long wings and a rugged body and long spey hackles. This fly is tied on a traditional Partridge salmon fly hook size 4.
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- Use a salmon traditional size 4. Bind wire up to the hook eye (or in the gut) and then wrap backwards.
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- Fix gold flat tinsel and oval silver tinsel at approximately 1/3 of the hook, measured between the hook point and the hook eye.
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- Wrap binding wire to the hook point, stopping at third, measured from hook point.
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- Bend the silver oval tinsel forward. Wrap the tying thread now up to hook point. Tie only the flat gold tinsel here on the hook. Bring the thread back to the front of the oval silver tinsel.
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- Wrap flat gold tinsel forward now to the oval silver tinsel. Fix the flat gold tinsel down.
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- Cut out of a brown rabbit fur the hair without the undercoat.
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- You do not need much, but be very sure to remove the woolly undercoat from the hair.
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- Wax the thread for the dubbing of rabbit hair.
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- Wrap the rabbit hairs to the thread (dubbing).
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- Wrap the rabbit dubbing forward approximately 2/3 of the hook shank measured from hook point.
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- Now tie in a nice spey hackle.
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- Now wrap the rabbit dubbing forward again and then wrap the flat gold tinsel forward and secure it to the hook eye.
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- Pull the feather fibers from the spey hackle backwards.
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- Wrap the spey hackle at the hook eye. Please note, tie it down exactly parallel to the flat gold tinsel.
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- Now wrap the oval silver tinsel forward, crossing over the others, so in the opposite direction. Bind this at the hook eye.
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- Now tie in a grizzey/olive spey hackle.
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- Find a nice flank feather of a pheasant or heron with long dark feather fibers.
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- Grasp the tip of the hackle and separate it from the other fibers. This is to secure it at the hook eye.
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- Now wrap this two or three times around the hook and then secure it by winding the wire.
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- Now select beautiful pieces of bronze mallardveren for the wings. The wings are made up of a left and a right wing. Find parts which match i length and colour.
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- Put the pieces of feathers against each other. The concave side facing each other.
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- Now place under a wing of bronze mallard on the hook. The lower wing is shorter than the main wing.. Hold the pair of wings above the hook and determine the length you need, fix these with one or two winds. Check and correct the wings if needed. Now tighten with 5 winds.
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- Fix the main wing in place over the shorter wing. Do this the same as in step 18, the length of the wing must be the same length as the total length of the hook of thread.
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- Cut off the remnants of the wings as short as possible.
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- Now bind everything with black thread.
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- Paint the thread with UV resin or epoxy resin. Now you put the wing into the correct position This spey fly is complete.
Filed under Salmon, Step by Step
Kent’s Dirty Fetal Glasshrimp – Barry Kent
Material List:
Any true circle hook (I use Gamakatsu Octopus) -4/0-6/0
4-6lb mono -this is the tying thread
Brown bucktail (we’ve all got plenty of this!!)
ginger Crystalflash
2 soft hackle stalks
Black floss
Transparent Craftlace
Striped section off of top of ziplock bag
Very soft tan woodduck or mallard flanks
25lb mono (for burnt eyes)
Quickset epoxy
Tying Instructions:
I need to emphasis that this fetal pattern has been designed to fish in a tidal current and dance with an erratic, terrorized swimming motion when retrieved in short, sharp jerks. Best fished where you would naturally find glass shrimp such as in a tidal rip around bridge and dock structures etc.
A word of caution – In large sizes this is a heavy pattern to cast, you almost have to lob it out! Be careful on your forward cast so as not to get hooked in your neck, back or in your fishing buddy. The hooking power of a circle hook is like a magnet – one of the reasons that I smash the barb down on this pattern.
HOOK: Any true circle hook, I prefer Gamkatsu Octopus Circle hook, all sizes from 1/0 to 6/0
TYING THREAD: One of the most important ingredients, 4-6lb clear mono fishing line – When the fly is complete it all disappears under the clear epoxy.
MOUTH & FRONT LEGS: – Light Brown Bucktail, Tied in before winding the body with 4-8 strands of ginger crystal flash over.
UNDER BODY: – Black floss tied in a hump at the bend – Changing the underbody color will give the finished shrimp a translucent glow of the floss or tinsel color used. Be sure to wrap this well around the bend of the hook.
BODY: – Craft Lace or half-round ribbing on smaller sizes. This stuff is widely available from craft stores and comes in a host of colors, many useful for fly tying. I used the off-clear here that has specks of multi-colored glitter in it here.
ANTENNAE: – Two stripped soft hackle stalks, It’s important to stress SOFT here as stiff materials can cause the pattern to “bounce off” a fishes mouth!- this, I think is the problem with some other shrimp fly dressings – cut off tips.
EYES: Burnt mono fishing line in big ball shape.
Optional – A drop of quickset apoxy (use the 90 second setting epoxy here) is applied to the head section.
ROSTRUM OR HEAD SPINE: The ribbed strip off of the top of a zip lock polybag. Cut to shape and tied in on top of the back section of the body to envelope all head parts. The eyes should stick out both sides of the head spine.
SWIMMING LEGS: three small bunches of soft tan woodduck or mallard flank fibers. Tied in under the body and evenly spaced towards the hook eye. Tie these three bunches facing TOWARDS the eye – they move well when the fly is retrieved).
UROPODS OR TAIL: same as head but double thick and cut to a triangle shape. Tie these in under the hook eye.
The shrimp is finished off with a coat of quick set epoxy along the head, back and sides.
Filed under Saltwater
Sparkle Braid Prince Nymph
This is a variation of the Prince Nymph by Hopper Juan Ramirez. You can keep up with Hopper Juan at his blog. I did an interview with Juan last year, so here is the link in case you missed it.
Filed under nymphs, Trout flies
Old Bass Bugs by Kirk Dietrich
Kirk shows us some cool bass bug history in this post. Check it out!
Some of these bugs are 60 years old.
Enjoy ye ole bug makers…
This is an overview picture of the bugs my friend Ted Cabali lent me from his collection to photograph.
Bill Gallasch’s Skipping Bug tied by Bill, named by Joe Brooks. Bill was Joe Brooks personal tier. According to Lefty Kreh, Joe didn’t do much fly tying. Bill originally made these from Cedar but then began making them from balsa; he drilled a hole near the bottom and inserted/glued the hook with bucktail and chenille into the hole. When Orvis was selling them, Bill was tying them for Orvis, so, if you bought any of these from Orvis way back, you have a Skipping Bug tied by the originator.
The Pac Man bug tied by local New Orleanean Ronnie Leonard, who is now deceased.
Fayard Crippled Minnow.
Christy bug tied and sold by and in New Orleans.
Pecks poppers, the large one was tied by Accardo’s company after he bought out Pecks. The smaller one was by Pecks.
The label says it.
More Pecks poppers tied by Pecks. Bottom – Dragon Fly, Center- Cricket, Top – Grasshopper.
Peck’s Parker Feather Minnow tied by Pecks. This pattern was given to Peckinpaugh by a cotton broker in New Orleans named Parker.
Kirk
Filed under Largemouth, Smallmouth
